Vermont travel writer Jen Rose Smith covers adventure, remote places, and traditional cuisine from a home base in the Green Mountains. Her articles have appeared in National Geographic Adventure, American Way, Nexos, Condé Nast Traveler, Backpacker, AFAR, Rolling Stone, USA Today, and Outside Online.
Vermont travel writer Jen Rose Smith covers adventure, remote places, and traditional cuisine from a home base in the Green Mountains. Her articles have appeared in National Geographic Adventure, American Way, Nexos, Condé Nast Traveler, Backpacker, AFAR, Rolling Stone, USA Today, and Outside Online.
Hi, I'm Jen!Vermont travel writer Jen Rose Smith covers adventure, remote places, and traditional cuisine from a home base in the Green Mountains. Her articles have appeared in National Geographic Adventure, American Way, Nexos, Condé Nast Traveler, Backpacker, AFAR, Rolling Stone, USA Today, and Outside Online.
Hi, I'm Jen!Vermont travel writer Jen Rose Smith covers adventure, remote places, and traditional cuisine from a home base in the Green Mountains. Her articles have appeared in National Geographic Adventure, American Way, Nexos, Condé Nast Traveler, Backpacker, AFAR, Rolling Stone, USA Today, and Outside Online.
Growing up in Montreal, tour guide Thom Seivewright learned early how to slip between the city’s mingled French and English. That soundtrack reflects Montreal’s unique bilingual identity, he says, one that extends far beyond language. “Montreal is great for people who don’t fit into the norm, because the city itself feels like it doesn’t fit into the norm,” says Seivewright. “I think that allows for individuality and creativity, and queerness thrives in that type of environment.”
After taking a deep dive into Montreal’s LGBTQ+ history in 2020, Seivewright founded the Queerstory walking tour to showcase the city’s fierce and fabulous heritage, from historic protests to hidden bars and legendary party scenes. Generations of activists have helped to shape the city into what is now one of the world's most LGBTQ+-friendly places. “The open mindedness of Montreal’s general population, as well as laws protecting LGBTQ2+ rights, have created space for a lot of queer representation in our society,” Seivewright says.
If you want to learn more about Montreal’s LGBTQ+ scenes, landmarks, and Pride, Seivewright is the one to ask.
“People in Montreal make eye contact and smile at each other on the metro. If you speak English, try some French. If you speak French, try some English. When you kiss, do it in French,” Seivewright says. “Montreal is a giant playground.”
Montreal’s LGBTQ+ neighborhoods
While the walkable Gay Village remains the heart of Montreal’s thriving LGBTQ+ culture, Seivewright says visitors should think beyond the neighborhood’s compact boundaries. “Queer life is not at all limited to the Village, so get out there and explore all areas of the city,” he says. For travelers seeking urban elegance, Seivewright recommends the high-end Golden Square Mile, adding that visitors interested in unique shops and restaurants should also consider staying in the Plateau. Those in search of European flavor, meanwhile, should head to Old Montreal (Vieux-Montréal).
Where to learn about Montreal’s LGBTQ+ history
Seivewright covers LGBTQ+ history on his walking tours. “I take people around the part of town that used to be the queer district, and we visit the locations where the stories took place,” he explains. Those seeking a deeper dive can also visit the nonprofit Quebec Gay Archives, which were founded in 1983 to document the history of Quebec’s gay and lesbian communities.
The best places to get a drink and meet others
Want to be social? Your ideal destination will depend on the kind of atmosphere you’re looking for. The city boasts tons of different options. “Sky is a sprawling mega club with different spaces and an awesome rooftop, while Notre Dame Des Quilles is a quirky queer space,” Seivewright says. “L’Aigle Noir is a bar for leather daddies and their admirers, while Bar Renard is a trendy cocktail bar.” The city’s most glittering drag stars can be spotted at Cabaret Mado, a lively bar in the Gay Village that’s one of Seivewright’s top picks.
Must-visit LGBTQ+-owned institutions
One of Seivewright’s favorites is La Graine Brûlée, which he called a “kitschy nostalgic café” in the Gay Village. If he’s in the trending Verdun neighborhood, he heads to Bar Palco, which is known for karaoke, board games, and brunches served on a cozy terrace. For great reads, he recommends Librairie Drawn & Quarterly, in the Mile End neighborhood; the shop’s selection of graphic novels has a strong emphasis on LGBTQ+ authors.
A brief history of Montreal Pride
Montreal activist John Banks helped organize Montreal’s first gay pride march in 1979 and carried a homemade, pink-dyed triangle flag at the head of 52 marchers. Canada’s first lesbian pride march took place in the city in 1981. Then, in 1993, the organization Divers/Cité launched their own march, drawing 5,000 people into the streets. Today, Montreal Pride—also called Fierté Montréal—is the largest Pride celebration in the French-speaking world and one of the biggest LGBTQ+ events in Canada.
How Montreal celebrates Pride
“There’s so much going on!” Seivewright says. The festival lasts for 11 days and includes drag shows, dancing, DJs, and art installations. The city’s Pride Parade is a centerpiece, and there’s a main stage with major shows and performers. Seivewright advises visitors to check out smaller events, as well. “The community day is always one of the highlights for me,” he says. “That’s when over 100 different groups and associations take over Sainte-Catherine Street and set up info booths. It’s like a farmer’s market for queer community groups. It's awesome!”
The importance of Pride
“Pride can be a celebration, a protest, an eye opener, a way to stand in solidarity with all the LGBTQ2+ people around the world who can’t have Pride like we do,” says Seivewright. “Most of all, it’s important to me because it honors the memory of all those who are no longer with us but who gave us the freedoms we have today.”
